When heading away on holidays, I try to tick off a few new cities or countries each year, and was lucky enough to visit Dubrovnik, Croatia last autumn. Though writing this post is rather bittersweet now due to the change of my relationship since, it’d be remisce of me not to share my tips and recommendations if you’re looking for a European destination for a post-summer vacation or planning way in advance.

I flew Dublin directly to Dubrovnik via Ryanair en route over, then Aer Lingus on the homeward journey, picking a 5-days-4-nights trip in late October 2024. The temperatures were still high for this off-season time of year (20-26°C), and there was nice buzz around the town without being too crowded. Dubrovnik is a ferry porting town, therefore expect big and small tour groups about town during all seasons.

ACCOMMODATION

I always do my thorough research for when staying in a new city, and the hotel I did find was an absolute gem. Hotel Kompas Dubrovnik is fantastic and very impressive, with its reception on the 5th Floor overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Located in the quieter Lapad area, this hotel had everything I love in good accommodation: comfortable bed, balcony with a view, swimming pool and sun loungers, indoor & outdoor seating for breakfast, cocktails for happy hour, and lovely staff.

I booked a Superior Double Room with Sea View and Balcony (~€1,130), which was just stunning and super comfy. There was so much space – from double wardrobes to seating in the room and even in the bathroom too. The bed was massive with comfortable pillows & mattress, the bathroom featured a big walk-in shower, aircon was easy to use, and the balcony made for gorgeous early morning cups of tae looking out across the beach, sea and to the surrounding mountains.

The swimming pool was heavenly, especially with the October sun. I practically had the pool to myself whenever we went down for a dip & sunbathe too. And thanks to the infinity pool feature and the glass barriers, I really enjoyed taking in the Uvala Lapad and surrounding mountains view. Pure bliss! The pool area is super clean with plenty of loungers and side tables available too. During high season there would be a full poor bar in operation, but staff didn’t stop us having a cheeky BYOB session.

The breakfast offering at Hotel Kompas was really good, with lots of healthy and indulgent choices, as well as continental hot food options, a range of teas & coffees and plenty of seating in- and outdoors. Cocktails at the terrace bar in the evening were also a great way to kickstart the first night on the town, and they’re strong too! There is another bar area up near reception, so I’d have to avail of that the next time I visit.

The staff was super helpful and friendly from the moment we walked into reception until check-out. We were able to leave our luggage with them on our last day as though check-out was 12pm, our flight back to Dublin wasn’t until 5.30pm – and the hotel was the ideal spot to nab a taxi from without stressing about baggage. I’d easily stay at Hotel Kompas again!

DO & SEE

Now, whenever you’re heading towards this historic Croatian town, there really are plenty of things to do and see. One of the easiest recommendations I’ll give you today: just walk around Old Town! There is a lot to take in, and I love how very different Dubrovnik is to other major European cities I’ve visited. There are cutie little boutiques, jewellery stores, delicatessens, and ice cream parlours around every corner, as well as tourist shops, bars and restaurants. And if you’re a cat lover like me, there are sooo many cutie kitty cats everywhere.

One of the definite things to do is to walk the Old Town Walls. This gives you such incredible views out to the sea and the mountains as well as to Lokrum Island, whilst also giving an amazing persepective of the whole town from one corner to the other. We bought our tickets from the tourist kiosk to the right of the Pile Gate entrance (€40pp incl. Dubrovnik City Walls + Lovrjenac) – I recommend heading for an early morning or late afternoon/evening so there’s not too many people on the walk. There are lots and lots of steps, and some are a bit steep but my gosh are the views just amazing. There are even a couple of bars on the walk too for a refresh and sea views. I say you too make a pit stop for one en route around, because…well, why the hell not!?

Visit Porat Dubrovnik & Porporela, which is a really nice harbour area to walk around that looks over the water. The latter is also near to where a public swimming area is, or you could also enjoy a few cheeky drinks, bring a picnic (and leave no trace!), nab an ice cream from a nearby parlour to sit and chill with, or just watch the sunset with your nearest & dearest. We spent a few evenings in this area before and after dinners, and it really is romantic.

If you’re an island lover like me (and it’s kind of in my blood with my Malagasy-Irish heritage), then I highly recommend making an island trip to Lokrum. You can nab your ticket from the Lokrum Ticket Office at Porat Dubrovnik (€27pp), and this is also from where you’ll board your ferry to the island. The ferry is only 10 minutes and runs frequently from 9am from the Harbour, whilst the last ferry returns from the island at 7pm. It would be wise to check & ensure the last ferry returning as depending on the time of year it might be different to the above.

Lokrum Island is a lovely nature and historical reserve that once again delivers picturesque views across the island, to Dubrovnik Old Town and the surrounding mountainsides. There are maps when you arrive so pick a route you’re happy with to ensure you don’t get lost on the way – you wouldn’t want to be rushing back from anywhere!

If you bring your swimwear, go for a dip in the Dead Sea, or sunbathe on the nearby rocks. The Path of Paradise is one looong path to the top of the island that gradually inclines, but oh it is so worth it for what you see from atop. There are so many gardens to explore, different kinds of flora & fauna, and I particularly loved how quiet it was on the island.

Plus when you get peckish or in need of a cooldown drink, there is a nice café on the island too that we stopped into for a refreshing lunch. Look out for all the peacocks, allow a few hours to explore, wear good, comfy shoes and just take in all the sights and sounds of Lokrum Island.

I feel like Dubrovnik just lends itself to views upon views upon views. Somewhere that really gives off all the romantic vibes awaits after you hop on the Dubrovnik Cable Car to the Observation Deck for a breathtaking experience atop Mount Srđ. It’s truly perfect for sunset, from where you can nab drinks too. And though it’s not cheap, it sure was a damn tasty glass of bubbly I enjoyed. I would recommend bringing a light layer as it can windy up at the top, especially in the latter half of the year.

There is an approx. 2km up-/downhill (90 mins) hiking trail if the cable car isn’t adventurous enough for you, or you could even opt for the on-site buggy adventures.

If venturing away from the main Old Town areas, then do make a visit to the Dubrovnik Port & Marina area in Gruž. It’s nice to walk and wander around taking in all the boats and yachts (big & small) and also offers options for other boat & ferry trips to caves or islands, as well as the main bus station if a day trip to Kotor and/or Budva (Montenegro), or Mostar (Bosnia Herzegovina) are on your list. I must note though, these buses don’t seem to run any same-day return bus trips, which is unfortunately why we didn’t make it across any borders on this trip – worth planning ahead!

Also outside of the main Old Town areas is Lapad, which is where we stayed at Hotel Kompas. This area is very beautiful, quieter and has a great stony beach for swimming at Uvala Lapad. I highly recommend to take the promenade walk for more beautiful views across the Adriatic Sea, and walk up towards the beach near Plaza President. There are lots of nice restaurants and bars along this promenade, as well as pockets of swim-spots.

FOOD

Dubrovnik sure has hospitality sorted, and if ice cream is needed then go to Peppinos Gelato for incredible flavours, big portions and decent prices; while you must also try out the traditional savoury pastry from Holy Burek for something unique, tasty and a hella good snack!

The Old Town has many restaurants to choose from and below I’ve given a more detailed review of my Top 3 favourites. In addition to these though, Castello is a nice little local restaurant with friendly staff that offers Croatian & Mediterranean cuisine. They even offered a discount if we paid by cash, and told us this in advance! He cheekily popped down to the ATM so we could avail, but regardless the food was very tasty and good value too.

In the Lapad area where we stayed, I recommend visiting Levanat for Mediterranean & seafood options that’s not only a lovely little local restaurant along the promenade with fresh ingredients but also boasts beautiful views across the water – so idyllic for a relaxing lunch or romantic dinner.

TOP 3 RESTAURANTS IN DUBROVNIK

1. Restaurant EZZA

The best restaurant we dined at was Restaurant EZZA Steak & Cocktail Bar. This restaurant is located just by the Ploce Gate entrance, and has a lovely outdoor terrace setting that overlooks part of the Walls and harbour, with its menu well-catered for steak, meat and seafood lovers. Food-wise? EZZA is absolutely class. It was hands down one of the best foodie experiences I’ve had. Both the Tuna Tataki with Avocado & Soy Sauce, and Steak Tartare with Crunchy Potatoes starters were so damn good it was a couple of closed-eyes moments. The former tuna was so soft and the thick seared slices were paired beautifully with the avocado and soy. I adore steak tartare and the one at EZZA was so meticulously prepared and so delicious – I have no other words!

The flavour from the Rump Steak was so pure and smokey with a delicious char to it, cooked to perfection (rare is the best IMO!), and his 12-hour Josper-grilled Brisket main was just unreal with full flavours that married perfectly together. Together with the sides of the Grilled Broccoli with Broccoli Cream, EZZA’s version of French Fries, and our gorgeous bottle of Ante Slavic Plavin 2022, it was such a delicious meal. The menu also offers Wagyu steak (hailed as one of the best type of steak in the world), which we were tempted by but held off on this occasion. I only slightly regret this choice!

And then there was the impeccable service. The staff was so friendly and really welcomed us in, table service itself was of such a high standard – even the breads & butter at the start were amazing! I felt like a queen during that experience as it was a pure treat from start to finish. In late October there is seating aplenty, though I imagine in any part of high season booking a table is a good idea.

Come for the food, stay for the service, and enjoy every moment.

2. Bota Šare

When it comes to food, I really do have such a passion for it – heck, I started this blog purely because of it! Honing in on good flavours, fresh food and dishes that are beautiful as well as tasty? I find that Japanese cuisine excels at this. So after our Lokrum Island and sunset atop Mount Srđ viewing, we headed to Bota Šare Oyster & Sushi Bar for a Japanese seafood delight of a dinner.

This was hands down one of the best Japanese restaurants I’ve been to, with really fresh fish and seriously delicious food.

The menu gives you so much choice, and similarly to Mexican food, it’s great for sharing so we ordered a handful of dishes to start as were pretty hungry after the long day out: Sashimi Set (with tuna, salmon, amberjack & cucumber), Chicken Katsu Uramaki, Spicy Tuna Norimaki, and Spring Rolls Bota. The sushi rolls were divine. And they were biiig portions, which is just what you want when you’re hungry. The combination of flavours from the fresh fish of each respective dish to its acccompanying vegetables and sauces atop, and the perfect sticky rice. Gosh they were just so good! We then ordered round two: Dragon Roll Uramaki and another of the Spring Rolls Bota. Again, the sushi did not disappoint; the classic dragon roll combo was as refreshing from the avocado and prawns as it was delicious.

Naturally I highly recommend to order the Spring Rolls Bota when you visit Bota Šare, especially if you like tuna. As you’ve just read we cheekily had two each given our second order, and these are spring rolls like I’ve never had before. Crisp panko tempura rolls, filled with tuna and a mixture of cream cheese, olives, smoked ham, and spring onion – otherworldly!

In addition to the delicious meal, we had a crisp white wine that complimented the sashimi, sushi and spring rolls beautifully; and the service at Bota Šare was friendly with good outdoor & indoor seating options.

3. Forty-Four Restaurant

If you’re looking for more traditional Croatian cuisine then definitely head towards Forty-Four Restaurant. We stumbled upon this restaurant by chance; it’s on one of the many smaller streets in the main area of Old Town. They do have outdoor seating, though as I adored the interior we opted for a spot inside – and they do have this very nifty terrace-like feature inside so it still feels like you’re dining al fresco.

Firstly, the staff and service here was top notch. Without a reservation, the manager seated us at a prime table and told us all about the background to the restaurant, which is actually owned by NBA player Bojan Bogdanović. But we’re here to talk about food not sports.

Forty-Four is a really great restaurant where your dinner experience is going to give you plenty to talk about. Opting for main course then dessert, my mains choice was the Veal Cheeks that was served with celery root purée, a demiglace sauce and pancetta chips, while he ordered the local Adriatic Tuna Steak with wok vegetables à la Julienne. The veal dish was so succulent, the meat was falling apart into that unctuous sauce. Crisp pancetta with every bite, it was such a heavenly dish. His tuna steak was also seared perfectly with a crisp outer and, complimented with the vegetables and array of sauces.

As for dessert, I went for the Poached Pear in Red Wine, and he the Chocolate Lava Cake. The former was delicious with enough bite that it was al dente with subtle red wine flavours that mixed with the vanilla crème anglaise beautifully. A true match that hit all the right sweet notes without being overpowering. His chocolatey dessert oozed from the middle once cut with a refreshing vanilla ice cream atop.

BARS

When it comes to holidays, enjoying drinks and relaxing go hand-in-hand for me. There’s something special about sipping on a cold one overlooking the sea or city, and doing so unashamedly really says ‘holiday mode‘ to me.

My favourite bar in Dubrovnik Old Town was Gradska Kavana Arsenal. This is a lovely bar that’s ideal for cocktails, and it’s fun for people-watching if you’re seated at the square view, or for boat-watching if you’ve opted for the harbour view. It’s a big space with a great cocktail menu, whilst also offering up local beer and wine, your usual drinks options, and if hungry they do have a food menu too.

I noted that Dubrovnik likes the aul Irish pub, and they had a few that we frequented. The Gaffe 2 Irish Rock Pub is a good little spot with lots of beer options, that also shows the sports on its multitude of big screens, with clean, airy interior and ample seating. It is an upstairs pub though, so if you’re in need of ground-floor access its sister pub, The Gaffe, will be a better choice.

Fat Bastard Pub. I mean, the name alone gives reason for having to visit. But in addition, it really is a great little spot. It’s run by a Croatian couple who serve up a local selection of drinks – I highly recommend the pink shimmery gin, Mountain Creek! It’s not only won the Best Croatian Flavoured accolade at the World Gin Awards, but it genuinely tastes delicious – and I drink my gin on ice without tonic, so you know I’m telling you full truths.

The aforementioned Mount Srđ Bar was so lovely for sunset drinks. This place felt so special, which is a bit of sad shame now…but honestly enjoy the drinks here. A little pricey, but worth it for one or two.

A few other bars and pubs I’d recommend bookmarking include Buzz Bar that’s a nifty little ‘dive bar’ where heartbreakingly now, our names are on that wall together – oh well; the Beer Factory is an interesting spot with some questionable decor but a good selection of local produce; the Irish Pub Karaka is another good little ‘dive bar’ that plays the sports too, and has great atmosphere on match nights though I’m not entirely sure where the Irish connection is; and Cave Bar More is a stunning waterfront drinks from where you can swim directly, with delicious cocktails in the Lapad area.

Nirina xx